Yes, I’d agree Ricard, I think you’ve said it the best!
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Thank you!
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Thank you very much for providing such helpful information!
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How do we join in on the live PPD mock exam today? I registered last week but I can’t find the link to join…
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So we wrapped up with today’s episode about an hour ago. We’ll upload it here tomorrow so you can catch it there.
As for the mock exam, you can still take it up at the top of this thread.
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For the discount code provided at the end of the webinar- how long is it active?
Approximately 30 days.
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This is killing me, I JUST studied this earlier this week and can’t for the life of me remember which book it was from, but, one tree isn’t a very effective wind block. Ideally we’d use multiple trees of varying sizes to effectively block wind. In doing so, we’d need to consider the types of trees being planted (deciduous will be less effective in winter months).
When looking at location placement for the tree in question 2, if I had been asked to place the tree according to ‘good landscape principles’, I would choose answer choice a or b. Without having more information about the site, I’d rule out choice c and d, due to being on the northern side of the house, and potentially rule out a, as it’s close to the house and depending on the tree and the foundation structure of the house, it could cause damage later on. Answer choices c and d wouldn’t add value to the site, aside from adding foliage. Think in terms of the client; if they’re paying for landscaping work, they’d probably want it to be functional as well as beautiful. Anyone can throw down a sapling and call it a day, but on these exams we’re designing to help a client reach a goal or solve a problem.
I think choices c or d would be appropriate if we were attempting to provide a windbreak (would need wind information), provide privacy (would need adjacent land information), or provide landscaping without hindering the amount of sunlight reaching the house.
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@samantha.lee; if I come across the section on wind blocks again I’ll let you know. I believe I found it in the “Planning and Urban Design Standards” reference book
Update: I found some good information on this topic in Architectural Graphic Standards, pages 982-991. See the quote below from the reading:
“A combination of deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs reduces sound more effectively than deciduous plants alone. Planting trees and shrubs on earth mounds increases the attenuating effect of a buffer belt”
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I think this is possible, but NRC (noise reduction coefficient) and sound transmission coefficient (STC) measure slightly different things. NRC measures how much sound is ‘bounced back’ from a material where STC measures how much sound travels through a partition. I thought this website explained it pretty well.
Pages 95-105 in Architectural Graphics Standards go indepth on acoustic properties too. Definitely worth a page through.
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Thank you cat.heard9! This is very helpful.
Will you please share the page title/chapter name for your aforementioned references in Architectural Graphic Standards? I have the 12th ed, and I was not able to find the right information.
I did a bit of research after this session, and I found having two rows of evergreens is better than one; and generally speaking, in order to be effective, trees as windblocks need to be planted much further away from the house than shown.
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I think the cost largely depends on the project. If a project is being built with concrete slabs and is in an area with high labor supply and availability, the trombe wall cost would be much less than if it were for a building made of timber in a remote location far from source materials. When incorporating trombe walls into a design, some have used the walls as load bearing walls, which can also help offset additional cost, as the wall will be needed regardless.
I’ve seen costs for these walls range from $9/SF-$25/SF, which is quite a bit more than other common exterior materials. To give a comparison (including labor and materials), EIFS weighs in around $5-7/SF, brick is $6-$10, and stucco is $7-$9/SF.
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Sure thing! In AGS 12th edition, it’s under Chapter 16, section ‘Element G: Sitework’, Landscaping. I’m specifically looking at reference 16.190 on page 985.
I can’t remember where the information was in the Planning and Urban Design Standards book, but I’ll definitely reach out if I come across it.
The information you found sounds correct. The physics of wind is so strange to me. Thank goodness I’m not an engineer 
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A good question! I’m guessing you’re asking about question 4? Let me know if that’s not right.
The systems are hard to compare, as some are per SF and some are per unit. See the costs as follows:
- Central Chiller Unit: ~$700-$1200/ton
- Commercial Rooftop HVAC Unit: ~$6,500-$8000/unit
- Trombe Wall: ~$9-$25/SF
- (Hydronic) Radiant Flooring: ~$6-$16/SF
If we applied the above systems to a 1,000 SF retail store, the costs would come in as follows:
- Central Chiller Unit: $1400-$2400 (assuming 2 ton unit)
- Commercial Rooftop HVAC Unit: $6,500-$8000
- Trombe Wall: short wall @ 25’ x 9’ =$2000-$5600, long wall @ 40’ = $3,200-$9,000
- (Hydronic) Radiant Flooring: $6,000-$16,000
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I’ve used trombe walls in the following situations for all building types: 1) south views are undesirable, i.e. parking lot, ugly buildings, industrial plant, etc. The trombe wall is perfect solution in these instances. 2) Campus buildings, classrooms, where one want solar energy, but no exterior visual distractions for students, looking out the window and daydreaming; 3) bird deterrence situation, where glazing is fritted, not visual glazing; therefore, trombe wall is effective.
Are you going to offer this mock exam again ….please real soon…….like this month.